Last updated: 05-Jan-2002
| 1966 Restoration Details |
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on any image to see a larger view. Feel free to email me if you have any questions... just give me a couple of days to respond. marcus@MustangSource.com |
Mechanical
- Before cleaning up the exterior, the undercarriage, wheel wells
and suspension were cleaned. This was going to be a daily driver, so this
wasn't detailing, it was rust prevention. I used a grinder to knock away
the loose undercoating and built up road grunge. After spending a day
or so cleaning up stuff, I coated the exposed metal and rusted areas with
ZRC
Cold Galvanizing compound
and sprayed everything with a new layer of undercoating. Heavier, 600 lb., springs replaced the sagging originals. This along with the Monte Carlo bar really stiffened up the front end. |
Rust
- All of the rust spots were sanded down to bare metal, and coated
with ZRC
Cold Galvanizing compound.
These areas were then primered. Black paint was sprayed over all the bodywork
areas. When sanding the black should disappear evenly; the black spots
that remain are the low spots. Any bare metal indicates a high spot and
needs to be taken down. Any cheap spray paint will work at this phase;
it will all be sanded off eventually. This is the longest phase. Do it right and the rest of the painting will go easier. |
Primer
-Choose a good quality primer and prepare the surface. Wipe down the entire
car with a tack rag and degreaser. Don't forget the door jams and hinges. If the interior is in good shape and still installed, be sure to cover things up inside. Spray paint can blow by some pretty small spaces and ruin a nice interior. Garage - I hung plastic sheets around the walls to keep the spray paint off other items in the garage. Hang chains from the frame to the ground to prevent static charges that repel the paint. Just before painting wet the floor down so you won't stir up dust. Make sure pilot lights are out and that all electrical appliances are turned off! Put the compressor outside. No sparks! Once there was an even color of paint on the car I found a few more imperfections, filled them, and wet sanded everything with #200 paper. The car got three primer coats with wet sanding between coats. |
The front valence was damaged and I didn't think the car had good lighting, so I decided on a little customization. This wouldn't be a big detraction from a basically stock car, since the valence is a bolt on piece. It took a lot of work to get the curves just right, but I wanted the look of built in lights rather than bolted on lights. Some of the structure is the original metal folded back and some of it is from scrap sheet metal from an old washing machine. The lights were off-the-shelf add-ons. | Two final
coats of acrylic enamel were applied with a #600 wet sanding between coats.
After wet sanding use a blower and make sure there is no water hiding
in a crack to be blown out during the final painting. All of the front
bolt on parts, the hood and the trunk were removed for painting. I originally
hung the hood from the ceiling by the latch, but it wanted to swing around,
so I ended up laying it flat. The under side of the hood and trunk were
finished first, so that the same paint mixture would be sprayed on all
exterior surfaces at the same time. Let everything dry for two days before reassembling. I waited until the following weekend. |
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